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WORLD OF CRUISING, Summer 2010 edition. UK
Article: Please don’t step on The Iguanas
By: Michael DeFreitas

Please don’t step on The Iguanas

Wisps of fine spray, backlit by a low sun, pierced the morning air along the black rocky shoreline of Punta Espinosa on the north-east coast of Isla Fernandina, the youngest and third largest island in the Galapagos Archipelago. The shoreline marked the edge of a vast lava field that stretched down from the island’s massive active volcano, Volc�n La Cumbre, 10 kilometres away.

As we headed toward shore in our panga (the local word for Zodiac), I couldn’t help but wonder what Charles Darwin must have thought about these strange wisps when he first approached these shores in 1835.

As it turned out, those tiny mysterious plumes turned out to be “sneezes” from thousands of black, 4ft marine iguanas blanketing the rocky shoreline. It seems the iguanas ingest lots of salt water when they feed on sea algae and eject the excess salt (water) from their bodies by collecting it in their nasal passages and sneezing.
Our panga driver picked a clear landing spot between the iguanas and, before we stepped ashore, our naturalist park guide, Harry Jimenez, warned: “Be careful on the sharp lava and please don’t step on the iguanas.” It was a necessary warning – they were everywhere and their black bodies blended perfectly with the black lava.

And it wasn’t only iguanas we had to contend with. During our first two-hour shore excursion, we also had to dodge scurrying sally light-foot crabs, flightless cormorants, playful Galapagos sea lions and lava lizards. Except for maybe Antarctica, no other place on earth offers such spectacular and easily accessible wildlife experiences. With its unique natural wonders and the rare and intriguing wildlife that played such an important role in Darwin’s theory of Natural Selection, it is no wonder the Galapagos Islands are one of the most celebrated places on earth.

Since the islands rank high on many cruisers’ “must see” list, the Ecuadorian government designated 97 per cent of the archipelago and the surrounding waters a national park in 1959. In an effort to further protect this natural treasure, UNESCO declared the islands a World Heritage Site in 2001. Straddling the Equator about 600 miles off Ecuador’s west coast, the Galapagos have attracted visitors since their initial discovery in 1535. However, most of the early visitors were whalers and buccaneers who basically used the islands as a giant larder. They slaughtered an estimated 300,000 giant tortoises and thousands of other animals for food. By the time Darwin arrived, a number of the region’s unique species had already become extinct, including some giant tortoises.

No animal is more synonymous with the Galapagos than the giant tortoise. The islands got their name from the tortoise’s giant saddle-shaped shell that reminded early Spaniards of a woman’s riding saddle, called a galapago. Of the original 15 tortoise species, three were extinct by the time Darwin arrived. Today, only 10 species remain (not counting the sole surviving Pinta Island tortoise). The islands also lost a number of bird, mammal and marine species, and presently have 15 species on the critically endangered list (including the flightless cormorant, mangrove finch and penguin). Five of the 13 main islands are populated and most cruises depart from Baltra, Santa Cruz and the San Crist�bal islands. In order to protect the park’s fragile ecosystems, visitor traffic is highly regulated. This means that not every cruise vessel sails to the same islands and itineraries change frequently, so it’s best to check various operators if you want to visit particular islands.

About 70 vessels now cruise the islands, so you can usually get to any island you want. Vessels come in all shapes and sizes, from 8-passenger sloops to 100-passenger cruise ships (park rules limit vessels to a maximum of 100 passengers, though). Some landing sites are not available to the larger ships because of the number of passengers allowed ashore at any one time.

Cruise itineraries range from four to 14 days, with eight to 10-day itineraries being the most popular. On a typical 8-day cruise, you can usually expect to visit seven or eight islands with at least two tendered shore excursions each day. A park guide must accompany all shore excursions (with up to 16 passengers per park guide).

The M/C Athala, one of two luxury catamaran yachts operated by Haugan Cruises, is one of the most stable, safe and comfortable ways of exploring the islands. The widebeamed, smooth-sailing cats are equipped with a crew of 11 and the latest electronic safety and navigational equipment. The boat boasts eight spacious 185sq ft, air-conditioned cabins with large portrait windows and balconies on the lower deck cabins.

The lounge is equipped with plush couches, a small library, two 40-inch flat screens for movies and informative lectures and two laptops for you to review your digital photos. There’s a Jacuzzi and bar on the second deck and the 1,200sq ft top sun deck sports carpet and comfortable reclining deck chairs. A rope net hung between the cat’s bows provides an ideal platform to catch an ocean breeze or watch dolphins surfing in the wake.

The almost 1:1 crew-to-passenger ration translates into a more pampered, personable and educational experience. By the time you have finished breakfast, you’ll find your cabin cleaned, your upscale biodegradable Aveda toiletries and basket of chocolates restocked, and fresh towels, arranged like various Galapagos animals, adorning your queen bed.

But what really separates the Athala from other Galapagos cruises is the feeling of family I got from the crew and other guests. Dining on the Athala was reminiscent of a casual family get-together instead of lunch in a school cafeteria.

There were no long buffet lines or loud chatter from dozens of strangers. The dining room’s large, custom-made mahogany table – where most meals are served – seats all 16 guests and you get a choice of dinner entr�es (salmon, tuna, filet mignon, etc.) prepared to your liking.

The intimate feeling spills over into the shore excursions that feel more like family outings than the usual crowded day-trips on most ships. The specially designed stern boarding platforms provide easy and safe panga access, even for less agile passengers. You’re issued walking sticks, beach towels and snorkel gear and, after each shore foray, you’re greeted back on the boat with fresh fruit, snacks and cold juices. Just for good measure, the crew washes your shoes/sandals and rinses your snorkel gear so it’s ready for the next time.

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